Ah, Victoria & Albert's. Disney's premier dining
establishment in Orlando
and, quite possibly, across all of their resort locations. The main dining room
is a small, elegant and reserved setting featuring haute cuisine and foods the
likes of which I rarely see. One group a night, though, gets to sit in a small
dining room off the kitchen at the Chef's Table. It's not an easy reservation
to get. You can book 180 days out but even that is rarely enough as those
guests staying on-property have the ability to book 190 days out and usually
take the best dates.
I decided I wanted that to be the capping experience of the
trip - after all, if I wasn't paying for the airfare or most of the hotels I
wanted to splurge somewhere. Initially I had targeted a day closer to my
arrival home for the dinner. I called 180 days out and sure enough Resort
guests had booked virtually every night for the next 190 days. The only thing
left was a Sunday night in June, 189 days out. One quick phone call later and I
had a dummy booking at a Disney hotel for 9 days that was later cancelled (tee
hee) after I'd successfully snagged that Sunday night V&A Chef's Table
slot.
I'd done the Chef's Table one before, about 14 months
earlier, and it was the best dining experience
I'd ever had. The food was fantastic as one would expect for a meal that costs
more than some round-trip flights. But the quality and rarity of the
ingredients and the coolness factor of getting a view of a working kitchen put
it over the top. I was curious to see how experiencing the Chef's Table for a
second time would compare. Here's the abstract, with the full review to come
below: the food on the second trip tasted even better. I had been saying for
the past year that for the experience I'd take V&As but if I wanted the
absolute most delicious food, I'd head to California Grill on the top floor of
the Contemporary Hotel with a view of the Magic Kingdom .
I can no longer say that as the taste of this particular menu blew everything
else away. That being said, as a value proposition the second meal was a bit
lacking. The price had gone up in the past 14 months and they gave you
considerably less for that. I still had an amazing time and don't regret it for
a second but it does mean it's likely to be a bit longer than 14 months before
my next trip ;) Now for the full review.
If you're the lucky group heading through the main
restaurant to the Chef's Table in the kitchen, you are requested to arrive at 5
PM. I met two of my friends who were joining me for the evening at 4:30 in the
lobby of the Grand Floridian. As usual I was there a bit early and grabbed some
photos:
I'm back at the Hong Kong Disneyland hotel! |
Someday when they catch Big Bird and stick him (her?) in here, I want to be on hand to watch and cheer. |
Asiana Lounge? |
This hotel is so damn classy it's got a band that plays every night. I am not classy enough to be here. |
Words I hate: pamper |
Beautiful out despite the rain |
On the way over I was debating whether to pay the $12 for
valet parking. Normally I would never, but I was wearing a suit and tie and
Tropical Storm Debbie was happening outside. Thankfully valet parking was
included (who knew?) so I didn't have to make that call.
After my friends arrived we headed up to the second floor to
have a drink in Mizner's Lounge. Those of you who have been faithfully reading
my trip report will remember that I met a couple of American guys in Tokyo
Disneyland. One of them had told me that if my meal was on Sunday then I'd find
Tammy working the Lounge - sure enough she was there and was delighted to have
me pass on my "hello" from our mutual friend. If it meant that my
amaretto sour was just a bit stronger, well, who am I to complain!
Mmmm, liquid gold |
At 5 PM we checked into V&A's. The normal maitre
d'hotel, Israel Perez, was off for the night so his replacement Melissa walked
us through the dining room and the kitchen to the back. Israel was a
great guy and all, but Melissa had a much warmer personality and I instantly
felt more comfortable. It probably helped that I'd been through this before.
The last time at the Chef's Table I was so uptight and worried about being
proper that I probably missed a quarter of the fun!
Thirteen consecutive AAA five-diamond awards |
We settled into the nice little dining area, set off by a
small railing from the kitchen. Gentlemen (using the term loosely here) were
told they could take their jackets off but that they had to don them if
traveling through the main dining room to the restrooms. They also brought out
a small stool for the lady's purse.
Our two waiters introduced themselves to us. They were both
extremely friendly and talkative and really set a nice tone for us. The main
chef, Scott Hummel, was off for the night, so we would be in the hands of
Thomas, one of his longtime assistants.
The evening started with a champagne toast shared with chef
Thomas. After that, our waiters took our drink orders. One of my friends had an
amaretto sour while I started hitting the Diet Coke hard. My glass never
reached more than half empty before it was replaced. In that manner I went
through at least ten over the course of the evening.
We were handed the menus which you see below. This was a new
touch, as last time we were kept in suspense. The reason behind the change
quickly became evident: during my last trip to the Chef's Table literally
everything other than additional alcohol was included. This time there were upcharges
for four of the rarest ingredients, including my main reason for coming, the
Wagyu beef. This was both surprising and unwelcome and, frankly, a bit tacky.
In the main dining room they've done this all along, but if you're going to pay
an extra $100 to sit in the Chef's Table then you know what? Just charge me an
extra $125 and don't make me think about whether I want to pay another $40 on
top of it for the best beef in the world. I'm sure this was due to rising
commodity costs, but it threatens to take one out of the experience and having
the menu ahead of time ruins a lot of the surprise.
Ah, the good stuff |
This was okay too, I guess |
Back to the meal! We started with the amuse-bouche. The
clear winner here, by unanimous acclaim, was the porcini mushroom cappuccino.
It tasted like essence of mushroom. We were all blown away by it and declared
it one of the four or five best of the night. Having had quail egg before, I
was not overly amazed by it, though it was well done. In general I have an open
mind while eating, but chicken liver is one of the few things that I absolutely
hate. That being said, and it's a sign of the skill in the preparation here,
the chicken liver terrine was good. Not saying I'd order it off a menu, but to
get me to say that liver is good is about as high a compliment as I've got in
me. Finally the cauliflower panna cotta did an excellent job of distilling the
cauliflower taste down to the basics and doing so in an unexpected form.
At this point we had the first of three bread services. Each
came with a different type of bread and a different type of butter. There were
also six different salts to try. Each of the butters was fantastic and the
breads ranged from good to excellent. Plus it's always fun to try Himalayan
rock salt.
Next up was our first appetizer, the Maine lobster with herb aioli and miniature
greens. The lobster was excellent and the flavors of the dish melded well
together. It was not a standout dish compared to everything else but, taken on
its own, it did well. When you have this many courses it's hard for any one
thing to stand out, even writing this the day after!
The next course definitely won for most impressive
presentation. The hot "smoked" lamb comes out in a goblet filled with
liquid smoke, which prevents you from seeing what is inside. It also looks
vaguely Haunted Mansionish, as one of my dining companions pointed out. Once
the aromatically-pleasing smoke clears you are left with a really incredible
pairing of the least-gamy lamb I've ever had with some Fuji apple. Independently they were tasty but
eaten together really moved them into the divine region. One of the best
courses of the night.
It was just warming us up, though, for probably the most
surprisingly amazing course of the evening. Copper River Salmon is only
available for about six weeks a year and even during those times is very
difficult to find. I'd had it once before and was underwhelmed by it. Not so
hear. Just a few weeks earlier I'd had what I declared to be the best piece of
cooked fish in my life. This was several levels beyond that. It was absolutely
incredible and, save for the Wagyu beef that I've now had twice, it was the
most incredible piece of protein I've ever had the pleasure of eating.
Thankfully I finally learned how to use chopsticks properly before this trip. I still kinda suck with them, though. |
Raw wasabi - very, very mild. |
I asked our waiter if I could have a few mementos of this variety and he brought me this lot - very much appreciated! |
The poulet rouge "oscar" which came out next did
little for me, but that's generally the case with fowl. It's just not my thing.
The king crab was delicious and the two types of asparagus added a nice
dimension, but as has always been the case when I've had multicourse meals (not
that often, I swear), I could lose the poultry course and be just fine.
For our next course we were able to try some veal
tenderloin. The veal had a nice, subtle flavor that was much more pleasing that
I normally find veal. The star of this course was the truffle bread pudding
which won me over completely on truffles.
What I wouldn't give to swipe a jar of those brandied cherries |
Not sure I qualify but what the heck |
Pay phones? Really? In 2012? In Victoria & Albert's? |
Finally we reached the main course. I could tell you about
the bison, which was delicious. Or the short ribs, which were amazing. But
really all I'm going to say is that the Wagyu beef was, once again (having
tried it once before at V&As) the best non-dessert food I've ever eaten. We
all sat there in silence as we ate it, not wanting to forget a second of it.
The very last piece. What a sad photo. |
Having successfully passed the main portion of the meal, we
decided to press on through to dessert. At this point in my previous trip my
dining partner and I had felt quite stuffed and so decided to talk a thirty
minute walk and watch the fireworks from the pier. This time while I would not
say I was still hungry, I definitely was not stuffed. And since the folks I was
dining with had quite a drive ahead of them we proceeded onto the cheese
course, which passed without comment.
Very neat coffee contraption |
It was then time for the first dessert course, which also
came beautifully plated. As someone who loves fruit-based desserts and could
take or leave chocolate I was in heaven. The blood orange mousse was out of
this world and the caramel cookie in the background turned out to be delicious.
For me this was one of the top three courses of the night, along with the Wagyu
and the salmon.
The chocolate course proved a bit much for me, but here's
some chocolate love for those who like such things:
Shot o'chocolate |
Edible gold |
Finally we closed with an assortment of sweets, including
the famed chocolate-covered brandy cherry. I could eat a whole jar of these,
though I doubt that would feel as good the next day.
Errr, one of each please |
The mysterious black box containing the check |
After settling up our bill, I bid farewell to my friends and
returned to the bar for one last drink with Tammy, Jessica and the rest of the
spirited bar patrons. Naturally it was blue and glowing. What can I say, I like
it that way ;)
A lovely way to end the evening |
Overall, I was very pleased with the meal. The quality of
the food was outstanding. Much of the last meal I'd had at V&As tasted good
but it often seemed like the menu was chosen more for the rarity or
"wow" value of the ingredients than for the taste. Which isn't to say
it wasn't good, it just wasn't the single best tasting meal of my life. This
run through might have been just that, with only a few meals that could rival
it in my mind. But the value remark remains. Last time the Wagyu and a caviar
course were included, which would have cost an extra $70 or $75 now, despite
the overall meal already being more expensive. Last time the courses were also
a touch larger, though that may have just been chance.
On my last trip there was a parting gift, in that case a
loaf of orange-flavored bread, which made a nice breakfast. I've read that
people have also been given jars of brandy cherries. No such luck for us and I
have no clue if that was just our bad fortune or if it's a new cost-conscious
policy. There were also no surprises during the meal, though I suspect that may
have been because with head chef Scott off for the night, his assistant might
not have felt he had the authority to do so. In case you're wondering what I
mean, during my last meal at V&As my companion and I had made a special
point to ask if we could try Wagyu as neither of us had ever had it. Not only
did Chef Scott serve us tenderloin Wagyu, he brought a giant slab of the raw
stuff back so we could watch him cut it. We were so amazed by the process that
on the spur of the moment he cut off some ribeye, threw it on the grill, and
gave both of us the most delicious piece of meat we are ever likely to try (hur
hur). He also let us try some Wagyu tartar.
Again I'm not sure if the change is part of more of a cost-conscious
approach to the Chef's Table, but it's a bit of a shame. That being said, I had
an abundance of absolutely delicious food, and wonderful companions to share
the night with. It is a night I will treasure always and it was a great way to
end the trip, even with a tropical storm raging outside.
Come back tomorrow for some final thoughts on the trip.
Wonderful - thanks for sharing and for your thoughts on the pace of the meal!
ReplyDeleteGlad you enjoyed it!
ReplyDeleteThanks for letting us live through you!
ReplyDelete